Old Wheel blues.

Both of my Z Magnettes have bent wheels, wobbly enough to shake the steering when front mounted and visible to drivers behind me when on the rear.

Wheels can be straightened, I haven't done that.  In seeking advice others recommend TR 6 or early, pre-87 Saab steel wheels.  I located a set of nos Saab steel wheels, they fit on the rear hubs but interfere with the front tie rod even with a 5 mm or so shim.  I will see about a thicker spacer, but will need to lengthen the studs.

I also have found a set of TR6 wheels, they look like they will fit the hubs better as the center offset looks good for clearance on the inside.  After cleaning and re-paint I will find out.

I have been cleaning the wheels and working out how to mount the hub caps.  I saw an online solution of using cap bolts set at an angle; other people have welded retaining studs.  I am not a good welder so I decided to go with the cap bolts.  Then at the hardware store I saw some knurled nuts, their shape was very close to the stock hub retainers.  I bought the 8 32 size, 3/4" length screws and nuts.  They are brass so fairly soft (yes, I over tightened one and snapped it).  I tapped  the 9/64" drilled holes with the #8 32 ncf tap. I put the larger end of the knurled nuts toward the wheel.  This closely approximates the size of the stock retaining studs.

I localized the holes for drilling with a cardboard template I made from an original ZB wheel. The spacing seems good, the hubs mount well.  They are hard to lift off except with the original 90 degree bend tire iron.

Card board template centered with spray can in hub.
Another use for WD-40.

Magic marker locating dots were used, then center punched and
hand drilled. This is a TR6 wheel.

Knurled nut in place, I used Loctite on the threads.

Nut gives a similar gap as the original studs. This  allows
the hub cap removal tool to get underneath.  

Screws in place in threaded holes.

Saab steel wheel.

Back side of the Saab wheel.

TR6 wheels on the car. Kumho Solus 185/65/15 tires.

Installing the side chrome trim. Drilling my fine paint!!

It is always a bit scary to drill through a nice finish.  This car was painted when I got it, and the replacement door and right fender panel didn't have the trim holes drilled. I was able to locate a set of trim that needed re-chroming.  I had some trouble locating a chromer I could afford, so it took awhile but looks good now.

Here are pictures of the process:

I was able to use the existing left hand fender holes
as a template for the right side. 

Then I used tape, the chrome piece and a level to
mark for the door trim. I used a 1/8" pilot hole and then
a tapered bit to match the hole sizes needed.

Looks good in the garage.

Outside views on a rare sunny day.

We have had clouds and fog lately, so glad to see the sun.

And the boot chrome:

Chrome side spears and trunk chrome.

I had trouble finding a chrome plater to re-do the side spears and the boot chrome.  I had some very expensive quotes and then found North West Chrome in New Plymouth, Idaho.  They were previously located in Fruitland and were closed for two or three years while they relocated.

They did a good job, the pot metal substrate was very corroded and pitted.

Before pictures:

After their magic:

Western Washington All British Field Meet

Since I had so few miles on the car I decided to tow the car to the Seattle area rather than try and drive through the heat over the mountains.  U haul car hauler worked very well with my Suburban.

I took my chrome side strips over to Seattle, I hope Art Brass Plating will be the ones to re-chrome them, it is a chore to find platers anymore.

The show was fun on Saturday, there were cars of many brands, and styles.  It was shady for us, in the sun it was warm but we stayed cool.  The grandkids had a large playground to keep them busy.

Magnette and '63 MGB share some old-times
in my son-in-law's garage.

Birch gray all waxed.

Three Magnettes were present; Dave Wall's, Ian McGowan's and ours.

6.5 liter Bentley engine, 1939 I believe.

Finishing up, more or less.

The car has been competing with summer, another MGA and a Humber Super Snipe.  The main delay was with the carbs, the  rebuilt carbs leaked, one at the junction of the carb base and float bowl and one at the jet.  I picked a rebuilder off the MG experience website, new to me. He had them over 5 months the first time for the rebuild, and now two months to try and fix the leaks.  I had tried new grommets, gasket sealer and prayer, to no avail.

In the meantime I have finished the dash, the parcel shelf and a few other details.  Like seatbelts, lap only front and back.

To get back to driving,  I put the carbs from my other Maggie into this one, she runs well.  I am towing the car to Washington for the ABFM near Seattle this weekend.  I just haven't had the carbs in long enough to try and drive that far with an unproven set of systems.

Waxed and ready to go.  We hope to meet with the original owner of the car in Seattle!  Hope she likes the work I have done.

Ready to ramble.

Stator tube

I had the pleasure of re-doing the stator tube wiring this week.  With the pictures and written descriptions from Steve Hanegan and this site:  http://www.zmagnettetech.info/maintenance/electrical/108-the-hornindicator-switch-the-magnettes-chinese-puzzle.html

it wasn't that bad.  I did mess up soldering so I had an unnoticed insulation melt cause a short, so I did have to take it apart and re-do the wires. I had to make the lower tube section from a 20" length of steel brake tube from NAPA.  I cut the flare off one end using my original as a template for total length and for the length and width of the end notch.  This notch aligns with some dimples in the larger diameter tube from the steering wheel, and prevents rotation.  The smaller diameter tube is removed from the lower end of the steering column, this allows the upper tube and steering hub to be pulled into the cabin for removal.  A brass nut fits on the lower end to compress a brass compression washer, this fixes the stator tube in place to prevent rotation as the steering wheel is turned.

 

 

Stator tube and trafficator switch.

 

 

Switch wire connections

Brake line, 5/16" worked into stator tube
lower section.

Brass nut fixing the stator tube on the lower steering column.

Windtone horns in place, not working on the car yet, sound good on the bench though.

 

 

Rear bumper, over riders and English license plate are looking good.



Headliner and dash installation

The headliner is back in and looks pretty good.  I tried to order a new one from Lou Shorten but it has been unavailable, her eyesight has declined to the point that she can't do the sewing anymore.  I elected to reuse the original liner, I wash it to remove as much of its history as I could, along with 40 years of life with a smoker.  It cleaned well but I should have stretched it somehow as it dried, because it did shrink. 

The installation is tedious but not that hard, awkward contorting into the car is the biggest hardship.  If you take the metal cross pieces out of the original, number them from front to back, that will save some time sorting them out later. I recommend using double sided tape to hold the edges in place while you fix the side finishing pieces in place.  Start at the front or back and work in one direction.

My clock is not functioning, a project for another day.

The dash from my car was in nice shape, the veneer on the end pieces was all that needed to be replaced.  I am not a wood worker but I bought some veneer and was able to bond it on and polyurethane finish to get a close match with the original.

The dash installed: